More on loudspeaker rigging

December 5, 2008

What brought about yesterday’s post was that I got my hands on a copy of Harry Donovan‘s excellent book Entertainment Rigging. We’ve started finals, so I can keep it out of the university library for a month or so without much fear of depriving anyone. And within the first few minutes of skimming through the book I learned something.

In rigging, whether for sails, construction lifting, trapeze, or suspending line-array loudspeakers, we use screw-pin shackles.  The standard training has been to use the “bell side” towards any rope that could possibly move, because the last thing you want is the some movement causing the pin to unscrew. Here is an example from the  DOE Hanford rigging manual:

Improper use of a screw-pin shackle

Improper use of a screw-pin shackle

Now a standard choke hitch that we use over a burlap-padded steel beam to make a point is just such a circumstance. You want the pin in the sling-eye, and the bow around the sling. But I’ve been seeing more and more people do it the other way around — with the theoretically movable rope against the pin. All is made clear in Donovan’s book, however, because if you are an up-rigger on a beam and you have to make the “correct” hitch, it requires two hands, but if you start with the bell already in the eye of the sling you can unscrew the pin, catch the free end in the shackle, and screw the shackle back together using only one hand, leaving one hand for holding on. Falls are the leading cause of casualties in this job, and I’m not aware of any incidents involving loads falling from pins unscrewing in choke hitches, so this seems like a really smart tradeoff.

The choke hitch I’m describing is clear in this video from Rigstar, which also shows why you probably want to use a basket-hitch instead of a choke anyway.

Speaker Rigging

December 3, 2008

Speaker Rigging

Most PA loudspeakers are not designed or built for overhead mounting. Those speakers you bought at the music store and use with your band? They work really well sitting on the floor. If they have the requisite cup, they’re good on a pole stand, but you have to be aware of the high centre-of-mass and make sure that the legs of the stand are spread out far enough that an accidental bump won’t topple the whole assembly. If you hang them from a ceiling unfortunate things can happen, unless they happen to be specifically engineered to be mountable.

I recently read an old post on the Blue-Room technical forum by someone who climbed up a ladder to check an old speaker that wasn’t working, and he found that the loudspeaker cabinet had “come unstuck”. The top of the cabinet was securely fastened to the building structure with appropriate rigging, but the rest of the cabinet was secured to the top of the cabinet only by the carpet that was glued onto it as a rugged finish material. It is a scary thought that something like that was hanging over peoples heads for who-knows how long, and it could have fallen at any time.

Years ago I read a JBL tech note on Safe Suspension of Loudspeakers, and it give quite a bit of detail about particleboard construction being unsafe for “flying”. It is still available online from JBL in a poor-quality scan, and I make it a required reading for my students because it is one of the few sources of rigging information that is aimed at the novice rigger, good accurate information, readily available, and free.


Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.